Aion REFRACTOR Manuel utilisateur

REFRACTOR PROFESSIONAL OVERDRIVE 1

PROJECT NAME

REFRACTOR

BASED ON

EFFECT TYPE

PROJECT SUMMARY

DOCUMENT VERSION

Klon Centaur / KTR

A part-for-part replica of a mythical overdrive effect noted for its high-end tone and price. The Klon

Centaur and its successor, the KTR, remain highly original designs in an industry full of clones and

tweaks to existing circuits.

Overdrive 1.0.3 (2018-11-22)

BUILD DIFFICULTY

Intermediate

This documentation is for the kit version of the project. If you purchased the PCB by itself, please

use the PCB-only version of the documentation instead. The circuit is the same, but the instructions

are completely different due to the specialized parts and assembly methods used in the kit.

IMPORTANT NOTE

REFRACTOR PROFESSIONAL OVERDRIVE 2

TABLE OF CONTENTS

1Project Overview

2Table of Contents

3Introduction

5Packing List

6Packing List (Cont.)

7Tools Needed

8Component Identification

9Hardware Identification

10 Main PCB: Overview

11 Main PCB: Resistors

12 Main PCB: Diodes

13 Main PCB: Sockets & ICs

14 Main PCB: Capacitors (Non-Polarized)

15 Main PCB: Wire Headers

16 Main PCB: Capacitors (Polarized)

17 Footswitch PCB

18 Input/Output PCB

19 Enclosure Layout: Panel Mounts

20 Enclosure Layout: Main & Footswitch PCBs

21 Enclosure Layout: Input/Output PCB

22 Final Testing & Assembly

23 Schematic

24 Full Parts List

25 Troubleshooting Information

26 Support & Resale Terms

27 Legal Information & Document Revisions

REFRACTOR PROFESSIONAL OVERDRIVE 3

INTRODUCTION

If this is your first pedal, welcome to the hobby and thank you for choosing Aion FX. You’ve just joined

a community of over 40,000 people around the world with a passion for building homemade noise

machines using obsolete electronics technologies, and we’re glad to have you!

If you’ve done this before, it’s great to see you again and we’re confident you’ll find this build experience

an enjoyable one.

Aion FX kits are designed to empower anyone to build a high-quality pedal, no matter the skill level.

The pedalbuilding hobby has traditionally had a steep learning curve, but don’t be overwhelmed—we’ve

done all the hard work for you. All you need to do is follow these instructions and you’ll be on your way

to transforming your tone.

There are a few things to go over before you get started.

• You’re going to have to get your hands dirty—there’s no way around it. Nothing here comes

preassembled, and you’ll have to learn the skills to put it all together. This document will walk you

through everything you need, but be prepared to learn a few things along the way.

• This will take time. Plan on about two hours start to finish. It may take even longer if it’s your first

time building. Don’t rush it. If you find yourself getting frustrated or overwhelmed, take a break and

come back in a couple of hours or the next day.

• No direct technical support is offered. There are several DIY forums and Facebook groups with

thousands of members who enjoy troubleshooting and teaching. But please be sensitive to the fact

that the staff at Aion FX is minimal, and every minute spent helping individuals in private is time

that can’t be spent on new project development.

• There is no implied guarantee of a final product. Aion FX provides the ingredients and the recipe,

but you are responsible for putting everything together to make it work. We’ve tried to make the

process as clear and accessible as possible, but it must be expressly stated that purchasing the kit is

not a guarantee that you will end up with a working pedal.

It’s recommended to read through all of the instructions before you start, particularly if you’ve never

built a pedal before. If you familiarize yourself with the entire process ahead of time and you know what

the goal looks like, each step will make more sense.

Now, on to the fun stuff!

REFRACTOR PROFESSIONAL OVERDRIVE 4

PACKING LIST

This is a list of all the parts that are included with the kit, grouped by value. For a list of all the parts

based on their PCB part numbers, please see page 23.

If you find that any parts are missing or damaged, please fill out the Missing Parts form.

Film Capacitors

NAME QTY

2n2 1

3n9 1

27n 1

68n 2

82n 1

100n 2

390n 1

1uF 2

Electrolytic Capacitors

NAME QTY

4.7uF 2

10uF 4

47uF 1

100uF 1

Tantalum Capacitors

NAME QTY

1uF 1

MLCC Capacitors

NAME QTY

390pF (marked “391”) 1

820pF (marked “821”) 1

Resistors

NAME QTY

560R 2

1k 2

1k5 2

1k8 1

2k 1

4k7 2

5k1 1

10k 2

12k 1

15k 2

22k 1

27k 3

47k 1

68k 2

100k 4

392k 1

422k 1

2M 2

Diodes

NAME QTY

1N4001 2

1N4742 1

ICs

NAME QTY

TL072 2

TC1044S 1

8-pin socket 3

REFRACTOR PROFESSIONAL OVERDRIVE 5

PACKING LIST (CONT.)

Potentiometers

NAME QTY

10kB 2

100kB dual 1

Dust cover 2

Knob 3

Mounting nut, potentiometer, 0.44" 3

Lock washer, potentiometer, 0.5" 3

Outer washer, potentiometer, 0.475" 3

Other

NAME QTY

LED bezel 1

LED, blue 1

D9E germanium diode 2

9V battery snap 1

DC jack 1

Input/output jack 2

Mounting nut, jack, 0.54" 4

Outer washer, jack, 0.6" 2

Lock washer, jack, 0.5" (thin) 2

Enclosure 1

Enclosure screws 4

PCB, main circuit 1

PCB, footswitch 1

PCB, input/output/DC 1

Switches

NAME QTY

Slide switch, 4PDT 1

Stomp switch, 3PDT 1

Mounting nut, stomp switch, 0.6" 2

Lock washer, stomp switch, 0.6" 1

Dress nut, stomp switch, 0.77" 1

Wiring

NAME QTY

3-strand wire assembly, 70mm 2

4-strand wire assembly, 108mm 1

3-pin wire assembly header 2

4-pin wire assembly header 1

REFRACTOR PROFESSIONAL OVERDRIVE 6

TOOLS NEEDED

SOLDERING IRON

Temperature-adjustable is

recommended. The optimum

soldering temperature is 700-725º

F (371-385º C) for leaded solder, or

750º F (400º C) for lead-free.

WIRE SNIPPERS

Also called nippers or wire cutters.

The Hakko CHP-170 is the best you

can get for less than $10.

SCREWDRIVER (PHILLIPS)

Used for the enclosure screws. Get a

powered driver if you’ll be building a

lot of pedals!

SOLDER

Preferably 63/37 or 60/40 leaded

solder. Lead-free is more difficult to

use, so if that’s the only type you can

get, it’s best to watch tutorials that

are specific to lead-free solder.

NEEDLE-NOSE PLIERS

These are used for bending leads on

components and other general uses.

Use the smaller type with a tip that’s

approximately 0.05” (1.25mm) wide.

FLAT SCREWDRIVER (SMALL)

This is used for tightening the set

screws on the knobs. The tip should

be no more than 0.1” (2.5mm) wide.

DIGITAL MULTIMETER (DMM)

Most cheap ones in the $10-30 range

are fine for what we’re doing. Make

sure it has audible continuity testing

(i.e. it beeps at the lowest resistance)

and transistor hFE measurement.

FLAT-NOSE PLIERS

Many general-purpose uses, but par-

ticularly tightening the nuts of pots,

switches and jacks. Quicker than

changing out sockets on a ratchet.

RUBBER BAND

Yes, a plain old rubber band. This is

used to tighten the dress nut to avoid

scratching or denting it (which can

happen with metal tools).

REFRACTOR PROFESSIONAL OVERDRIVE 7

COMPONENT IDENTIFICATION

If you’ve never built a pedal before, you’ll need to know what all the components are. These are shown

actual size. (Not all of these types of components may be part of this kit.)

TRIM POTENTIOMETER

FILM CAPACITOR

SILICON DIODE

ZENER DIODE

LED

DC JACKWIRE ASSEMBLY HEADER

LED BEZEL

WIRE ASSEMBLY

ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITOR

IC OR OP-AMP

TANTALUM CAPACITOR

SCHOTTKY DIODE

IC SOCKET SNAP-APART SOCKET

RECTIFIER DIODE

TRANSISTOR OR JFET

Not polarized. Color may

vary by brand and type.

Not polarized. MLCC stands for

“multi-layer ceramic capacitor.”

Some Schottky diodes

also look like this.

Polarized. The positive side

is marked.

Polarized. The negative side

is marked.

Some voltage regulators

also look like this.

It’s recommended to use a

razor blade to separate

these cleanly.

Charge pumps and delay chips

also look like this. They may

have more than 8 legs.

RESISTOR

GERMANIUM DIODE

MLCC

These are very fragile, so be

careful when handling them.

REFRACTOR PROFESSIONAL OVERDRIVE 8

HARDWARE IDENTIFICATION

The hardware comes unassembled, so you’ll need to sort & identify each of the pieces. The diagrams

below are actual size, so you can set them against the printed page to identify them if needed.

I/O JACK

TOGGLE SWITCH

POTENTIOMETER

(SINGLE)

FOOTSWITCH

POTENTIOMETER

(DUAL)

MOUNTING NUT

DRESS NUT

OUTER WASHER

DRESS NUT

OUTER WASHER KNOB

LOCK WASHER

DIAMETER: 0.54” / 13.7mm

DIAMETER: 0.36” / 9.1mm

DIAMETER: 0.44” / 11.2mm DIAMETER: 0.5” / 12.7mm

DIAMETER: 0.6” / 15.2mm

DIAMETER: 0.375” / 9.5mm

DIAMETER: 0.475” / 12mm

DIAMETER: 0.5” / 12.7mm

DIAMETER: 0.4” / 10.1mm

DIAMETER: 0.6” / 15.2mmDIAMETER: 0.77” / 19.6mmDIAMETER: 0.6” / 15.2mm

REFRACTOR PROFESSIONAL OVERDRIVE 9

MAIN PCB: OVERVIEW

Now it’s time to start building!

The first thing you need to do is snap apart the PCB into 3 separate boards and break off the tabs from

each using needle-nose or flat-head pliers. You should be left with this:

The general principle for PCB population is that you work in layers from shortest components (i.e.

lowest-profile) to tallest so that when the PCB is upside-down, everything is making contact with the

work surface and is held in place.

So, you will start by populating the resistors (the lowest-profile components), followed by the diodes,

sockets, film capacitors, and finally the electrolytic capacitors.

REFRACTOR PROFESSIONAL OVERDRIVE 10

MAIN PCB: RESISTORS

PART VALUE

R1 10k

R2 2M

R3 100k

R4 560R

R5 5k1

R6 10k

R7 1k5

R8 1k5

PART VALUE

R9 1k

R10 2k

R11 15k

R12 422k

R13 1k

R15 22k

R16 47k

R17 27k

PART VALUE

R18 12k

R19 15k

R20 392k

R21 1k8

R22 100k

R23 4k7

R24 100k

R25 560R

PART VALUE

R26 68k

R27 68k

R28 100k

R29 27k

R30 27k

RPD 2M

LEDR 4k7

Using the parts list above, populate the resistors by pushing them through the holes and bending the

leads outward at an angle to hold them in place. Resistors are not polarized, so they will work in any

direction. Turn the board upside-down to keep the components held in place while you solder.

You’ll use this same technique for most of the other components as well.

Don’t try to do all of the resistors at once. You’ll want to stop periodically flip the board and solder

everything, then cut the leads using the wire snippers to make room for more. Generally you don’t want

to do more than 15 to 20 resistors at a time or the bottom of the board will get too crowded.

If this is your first time soldering, watch tutorial videos on YouTube and make sure you get it down

before you begin. You don’t want to practice or experiment on this board!

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